Meet My Mini-Me

After making my Bootstrap fashion diy stuffed gown form, I made a half scale version of myself. quite cute, isn’t she?

I made some alterations to the bust area to try to right the fitting problems I had there on the full scale version. It’s much better than it started out, however I went a bit as well far with the bust reduction, so now it’s a bit as well small. I stuffed the bust as firmly as I could, as well as it’s close to the ideal size, though. I didn’t make any type of other fitting modifications to the rest of the gown form.

I draped a fitting shell on my paper tape gown type that fits me perfectly. I scanned the pattern as well as printed it at half scale to see exactly how it in shape on the half scale gown form. The fitting shell goes onto the half scale type OK, however it is not what I think about a great fit. the worst problems are in the carry area. Still, it’s close sufficient that I might style a new garment based on my half scale fitting shell, sew it up, put it on the miniature gown form, get an concept of exactly how the completed garment will look, as well as modify the style before making a full scale version.

Links in this publish determined by an asterisk (*) are affiliate links. If you click with as well as make a purchase, I will make a compensation (at no extra expense to you). I was supplied this pattern at no expense to me.

For the most part, the stitching directions for the full scale version of the Bootstrap fashion gown type pattern* work for the half scale version. There are some things you can do to make stitching all of those tiny, curvy pieces easier, though.

After you print the pattern at 50%, add 1/4″ (6 mm) seam allowances.

Use thin however steady material to make the gown type from. I fused Pellon SF101 interfacing* to quilting cotton, as well as cut the pattern pieces with both the material as well as interfacing on the cross grain so the most steady direction of the material is going around the body. This was a great weight of material as well as interfacing to use, as well as it was steady sufficient without being as well thick to sew with all of those small pieces.

I would suggest pressing the seams open, however not topstitching them. I made a tiny pressing ham by stuffing one balled up sock into the toe of another, as well as I pressed utilizing my Clover tiny Iron*. You might likewise avoid the pressing as well as just finger press the seams open, however the completed gown type will look a bit nicer if you press the seams open as you sew them.

The greatest modification I made was to make the center support tube go only as much as just above the waist. This is not necessary, however it assists the support tube stay firmly in the center as well as not end up tilted to one side, as well as it makes stuffing the gown type much easier if you have a little waist. This is similar to the method I created the center support tube in my tiny Stuffed gown Form. I likewise suggest cutting the center support material piece from only a single layer of interfaced material rather than cutting two, as well as stitching it to both layers of front as well as back seam allowance (don’t topstitch the center front as well as center back seams, or this won’t be possible). The explanation for the pattern adjustments is rather long, so I’ll come back to this at the end of the post.

When stitching two pieces together that have different curvature, you will requirement to pre-clip the seam allowance of the less curvy (or inward curving) edge before you can pin as well as sew them together.

For the neck top as well as armhole cover, I extremely suggest hand basting them in location first. I utilized two rows of hand basting on the armholes – one row on either side of the stitching line. You will requirement to clip into the seam allowance truly close together to be able to get the pieces to in shape together. maker stitch utilizing a zipper foot, with the neck top or armhole cover dealing with down on the maker bed.

The lining piece that holds the cardboard armhole support in location can just be hand sewed in location with basting stitches. There’s no requirement to try to wrestle it around on your stitching maker to get a row of maker stitches there.

Instead of stuffing the neck with a piece of sponge or foam cut into a cylinder, I rolled up a strip of fleece to the ideal size as well as sewed the end in place.

For the base cover, instead of cutting two of each piece, I cut one of fusible interfacing as well as one of ordinary unfused fabric. I sewed the material to the interfacing, with the non-fusible side of the interfacing against the ideal side of the fabric. then I trimmed as well as clipped the seam, turned the pieces ideal side out, as well as fused the interfacing in place. This completes the edges without adding additional bulk.

I likewise skipped adding the zippers on the base cover, considering that that would be as well bulky at half scale. I hand sewed the edges together. Pulling some slack in the base cover as well as pinning it with the cardboard makes stitching easier.

Here are the details on the modifications I made to the center support as well as tube.

I made a strong paper tube from heavy paper by wrapping it around the dowel on my stand as well as gluing it as I rolled the paper around the dowel. This method I had a tube precisely the ideal size for my stand. I likewise glued a circle of paperboard onto one end of the tube to stop wear as well as tear on the top of the material pipe tube when the gown type is turned on its stand.

To integrate the front as well as back center support pattern pieces into one piece, I put them with the long directly stitching lines in the center 2 cm apart, aligning the bottom edges. note that seam allowance is only added to the long rounded edges of these pieces. then I linked the curve up at the neck as well as linked the lines at the bottom. The original stitching lines down the middle will not be used. You can throw out the pipe sleeve pattern piece, as you will be drawing a new pattern piece for it.

Draw line A midway between the original stitching lines from the bottom to about half method between the bust as well as waist. draw line B perpendicular to A.

Measure the length of line A as well as make a note of it. After gluing a paperboard circle onto one end of the paper tube, utilize a razor knife to cut the paper tube to be the length of line A plus 5 mm.

Measure the outer diameter of your paper tube. mark half of the diameter on either side of the red line A. These are the dashed eco-friendly lines shown below, as well as will be stitching lines. mark extra lines 1/4″ (6 mm) out from the dashed eco-friendly lines. These lines, shown as solid eco-friendly below, will be the lines that you line the material edges on the pipe sleeve to.

Shorten line A as well as draw in angled lines that end at the intersection of line B (blue) as well as the stitching lines. The red lines suggest where you will cut the fabric. The other lines must just be marked on your fabric, although marking the stitching lines is optional.

Here is my pattern piece, cut as well as marked. I do not have the stitching lines marked, just the recommendation lines 1/4″ (6 mm) out from the stitching lines.

Cut a narrow strip of paper as well as wrap it around the outside of the paper tube to discover the circumference. inspect in a number of locations as well as determine around the largest place. Make a mark on the paper to mark the circumference, then eliminate the paper as well as make one more mark 2 mm past that mark. cut the paper at the second mark, then fold it in half.

Here’s exactly how to draw a new pipe sleeve pattern. draw the following, where A is the original length of line A, as well as “WIDTH OF folded PAPER” is half the tube circumference + 1 mm.

 

Add seam allowances of 1/4″ (6 mm) to the long sides, however not on the 4 cm section on the end. draw in three evenly spaced 3.5 cm long lines on the end of the 4 cm section. These will be where you cut the end into a fringe. mark notches, etc. as shown below.

Here’s what the final pattern looks like, with stitching lines shown dashed.

Cut the pipe sleeve from interfaced fabric. sew the sides from the notches near the folded end down to the ends near the fringe, being extremely cautious to utilize the right seam allowances. test to see if your paper tube fits. It must be snug however not incredibly tight. The fringe pieces must line up with the end of the paper tube. Take the paper tube back out.

Align one long edge of the pipe tube with a recommendation line (the ones I showed as solid eco-friendly above). line up the notches with line B (blue line). stitch just next to your very first line of stitches (stitching better to the cut edge so your pipe sleeve does not get smaller). line up the other pipe sleeve edge with the other recommendation line as well as stitch as you did the other side.

If you’ve done whatever correctly, when you insert the paper tube, the width of the center support piece must be the exact same as it was originally on the pattern at the midsection as well as hips. The top of the paper tube must be at line B, as well as the other end of the paper tube must prolong 5 mm past the bottom edge of the center support.

Here’s the center support piece pinned to the center front as well as center back seam allowances, matching notches at bust, waist, as well as hip.

Note that the bottom edges will not line up:

When you are stuffing the gown form, stuff down to the level of the top of the pipe sleeve with the paper tube removed. then insert the paper tube as well as surface stuffing the gown type according to the pattern instructions.

Here are the links to the Bootstrap fashion gown type patterns, if you want to try making your own mini-me (or full size twin!).
Missy gown Form*
Curvy gown Form*

* links in this publish determined by an asterisk (*) are affiliate links. If you click with as well as make a purchase, I will make a compensation (at no extra expense to you).

I was supplied this pattern at no expense to me.

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